The author looks back at the quality of the old days, a time which everyone of us experiences differently, including the historian of food customs. During the industrial era, (1800-1950) the aspects and the very notion of quality changed considerably with new living conditions, sanatory improvements and marketing modifications being the most important. During a long period, good quality was a class priviledge and food was a means of segregation. When the conditions changed and good quality products became obtainable by a larger category of consumers, the reaction of the priviledged was clearly perceptible. The question is whether present conceptions of quality are not to a certain extent turning back to « what used to be ».
