This communication focuses on the production of the agreement between the quality wine drinker and the wine. Various studies of sensorial analysis or cognitive science, the ordinary knowledge of any wine seller claim that the "usual" wine drinker is not expert to discriminate the taste of the different wines. Thus, why does he buy expensive wines ? The anthropological study of the concrete organisation of the quality wine market shows that the assessment of quality of the wines is done by the wine critics. A first effect of the work of the critic is to publish information on the quality of wine and to raise up vocations of wines lovers, enhancing the place of taste in their buying behaviour. A second effect is to generate reputation and confidence in the quality labels for the "usual" wine drinker ; for him, quality wine is a trust characteristic product. The satisfaction of the drinker relies on the confidence the wine is able to generate, and not on his own perception of the quality of the wine.